A smörgåsbord of cuisine

Copenhagen may have put New Nordic cuisine on the map, but Sweden has been quick to catch up, with nine Michelin-starred restaurants in Stockholm, four in Gothenburg and one in Malmö. In the capital, Frantzén’s Japanese-influenced New Nordic tasting menu isn’t cheap, but it’s less a meal than an experience, that can last over five hours. Other highlights from Stockholm’s Michelin eateries are Sushi Sho, Agrikultur and Oaxen Krog.

Stockholm food halls Östermalms Saluhall and Söderhallarna offer both inventive street food and classic Swedish fare (Melanders fish restaurant, with branches in both is a favourite for lunching executives).

In recent years plant-based food has developed rapidly in Sweden. Malmö leads the way with restaurants like Plant Magic’s Kitchen and the natural wine bar Mineral, transforming ordinary vegetables into extraordinary dishes, and Sajvva offering Asian-style vegan dishes.

In Stockholm, Mahalo offers fun vegan takes on streetfood staples like tacos, falafels and hummus. For old-school vegetarian food, there’s Hermans, the city’s oldest vegetarian restaurant with its views over the waters to the Gröna Lund amusement park.

For ethnic food, Tbilisis Hörna, south of Södermalm in Johanneshov, makes an authentic Georgian Khachapuri cheese pie. Pat’s Place in Södermalm offers excellent Thai, and the city has a growing roster of Indian restaurants, including the rapidly expanding Indian Street Food Company chain.

On summer nights, there are few better places to be than the Mälarpaviljongen jetty bar on Kungsholmen. At Tak, a restaurant and bar, on top of the Gallerian shopping mall in the city centre, has a huge outdoor terrace with great views of the Royal Palace and City Hall.

But the prize for rooftop bars in Sweden went to Gothenburg in 2020. Taket, on top of the Comfort Hotel, was named the best party rooftop bar anywhere in the world by The Rooftop Guide. Taket’s founder Daniel Meyn credited its win to the atmosphere and views of the characteristic cranes of Gothenburg harbour. The nearby Cielo has also picked up numerous accolades in a city that is truly rivalling the capital these days. It offers great views of the city’s central main street Avenyn and has a fun-loving, carefree vibe.

At the other end of the scale, Gothenburg boasts the Ölhallen 7:an pub, a local institution whose original 1933 interior remains largely intact.

Gothenburg rivals Stockholm for innovative Scandinavian cuisine too, with Bhoga, Koka, SK Mat & Människor, 28+ and Thörnströms Kök all winning Michelin stars. You can get classic seafood at Sjöbaren or “Feskar Brittas Kro”, while Daawat serves some of the city’s classiest Indian food and Pasha Grill some top-end Turkish cuisine.